Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Cape Town Series: Shark Diving




http://moviepostermagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/JAWS-ORIGINAL-SHARK-MOVIE-web.jpg
Leading up to, and after, our arrival in South Africa, there were several people who asked Michelle and me if we planned to go shark diving. South Africa is home to the world-famous Shark Alley, which has been regularly featured on The Discovery Channel during Shark Week. It’s an area where lots of Great White sharks can be seen as they’re migrating around the Southern tip of Africa. We hadn’t given much thought to the idea of diving into the water to see sharks, seeing as neither one of us felt strongly about the animal. But as we were gearing up to go to Cape Town, some friends of ours asked if we wanted to join them as they planned to go shark diving. Reconsidering the notion of shark diving, Michelle and I thought it would be a unique experience given the fact that our time in South Africa in finite and shark diving isn’t necessarily an easy activity to find in the US.

While it ended up that Michelle and I didn’t actually go shark diving with our friends (they chose to go on a date that worked better for their vacation plans), we did end up going shark diving.

When I think about Great White sharks, the first image that comes to mind is Jaws. Thanks to Steven Spielberg and John Williams the shark that plagued the New England resort town and, further, the music that accompanied the impending doom, I pictured seeing Jaws while I was in the shark cage. Needless to say, I felt scared.

"I Feel Safe..." (Famous Last Words)
What I did find when I entered the shark cage was not fear, but, oddly, comfort. Let me explain. Before boarding the boat that took us out to the middle of Shark Alley, the captain/guide led the other participants and I through a safety orientation. Included were step-by-step instructions about what was going to happen when we got out on the water, how to enter and exit the shark cage, and how to best view the sharks.

Safety Orientation
The Actual Shark Cage We Used



Based on anything I had seen about shark diving prior to this experience, people used scuba gear so they could totally submerge themselves under the water. I learned during the orientation, however, that many companies no longer use scuba gear with tourists, but, instead, follow the “hold your breath” method. The method is… exactly like it sounds. At the command of the guide, anyone in the shark cage would take in a huge gulp of air and duck their heads under the water to view a shark as it passed by the cage. Everything else was the same; we’re still totally submerged under water as that happened. 
View From Above
Seeing the lengths the guide went through to ensure his clients’ safety, I felt at ease about joining the sharks on their turf. The feelings I felt instead were excitement and anticipation. I wanted to hold my break for as long as I could so I could watch the sharks below the surface.

Time to Jump In
After a short 20-minute ride from the boat launch to Shark Alley, Michelle and I squeezed into wetsuits and waited our turn to jump into the shark cage. When it was time, we donned goggles and slid in the water. I was thankful we had the wetsuits because the water was freezing! (We learned from the guide that the water temperature was 13° Celsius, or 55° Fahrenheit). I had our waterproof camera in my hand to capture images of the shark as it passed. (This was the first time using the camera in saltwater, so I was nervous that it was going to break). We waited in anticipation for the command from the guide. Then it happened; we heard his voice scream, “Down, down, down!” In the exhilaration of the moment, I forgot to take a breath and found myself underwater looking everywhere for the shark. I didn’t have any luck. It wasn’t until the initial excitement faded, and the sting of the cold water registered, that I realized that I didn’t have any air. The moment to see the shark came and went, so I came back up to take in some oxygen. Cheers and excitement filled the tank from the other clients; some had seen the shark but others missed it too. I told myself I needed to remember to breathe next time and to look toward the bait in order to see the shark. As I waited for the next shout from the guide, with my camera in hand, I had my game plan set and was ready to take in the Great White shark for all of its glory.

“Down!” I dove under again. There it was – a Great White shark. Powerful and sleek, moving silently with what seemed like little effort through the water. I could see its dark eyes and rows of jagged teeth. It was majestic. (If I wasn’t already holding my breath, I would say breathtaking – haha!).
To Give an Idea of Proximity...
Say Hello!
"Oh My God!!!"
Michelle and I got to go into the shark cage twice. The second time felt much colder than the first, but it was worth it. Great White sharks are truly beautiful creatures. All in all, at least three sharks swam by our boat. The largest shark was about three meters long (9.8 feet). We learned from the guide that typically only juveniles will come up to the boat. The larger, older sharks don’t waste their energy when they know there’s better prey out in the water.
"Come here...."
Seeing the Shark From Inside the Cage
Reflection: More Than Jaws
Since coming back from Cape Town, Michelle and I have looked into shark diving, and we’ve learned that there is a debate about whether or not it should be allowed. On the one hand, shark diving increases (positive) exposure to Great White sharks; thus decreasing the stigma/fear of the species and increasing awareness about harmful practices committed toward them. Practices like using the fins from the sharks to make shark fin soup; thus putting their existence at risk. This in turn creates stronger stewardship to protect Great White sharks. On the other hand, the chum (a mixture of fish oil, blood and saltwater) used to attract the sharks to the boat could be linked to keeping the sharks in an area that they would otherwise pass through more quickly. This change in amount of time could have an effect on their migratory pattern. Some places around the world are no longer offering shark diving in an attempt to enable the sharks to go back to their natural state.
Although the bait isn't intended to feed the sharks, they do sometimes get ahold of it.
Great White sharks are wild animals.  What are our roles in protecting these majestic creatures?
Having learned this information after the fact, I’m not sure if I would go shark diving again, but then again, I’m not sure I wouldn’t go either because of the wonder I hold for nature. I do know that I’m for increasing the safety and wellbeing of creatures large and small, human and non-human. I also care about the earth, and its inhabitants, so I am reminded that I should be more-informed and to look into the impact my tourism has on the environment.
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To read more about shark diving and the issues surrounding it, Michelle and I have provided some helpful links below. Happy reading!

IOL Scitech article from about the connection between chumming and shark behavior:
http://www.iol.co.za/scitech/science/environment/shark-research-shocker-1.1282018#.VSk6U5TUlK8
Article from The Guardian about one journalist's account of her shark diving experience:
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2006/oct/13/adventure.extremesportsholidays.watersportsholidays
World Wildlife Federation report on the status of Great White Sharks:
https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/great-white-shark

1 comment:

  1. Great post! I could just see you reacting to the shout and then thinking "Shoot!" when you realized you didn't take a breath. Interesting dilemma posed at the end and thanks for sharing the links for more info. Stay safe, you two!

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