Thursday, January 7, 2016

Kilimanjaro in Pictures

A couple of years ago, while Joe and I eagerly awaited a response from the Peace Corps about our acceptance, he said to me, “If we end up anywhere in Africa, I want to climb Kilimanjaro.” We figured it was about the closest we were ever going to get to living near Africa’s most famous mountain.

In December 2015, we made that dream a reality. We have created two posts to honour this journey. The following post tells of the story through pictures. There is a second post (linked here) that contains a more detailed daily log of the trip.
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The story begins...


Our Fearless Adventurers: Joe, Michelle, and Kelsey (another PCV from our cohort)


The full packing list (available here) includes all the essentials: thick jackets, hiking boots, and the optional pee bottle. It made for interesting unpacking and repacking moments.


Once in Tanzania, we met our guides at the very lovely Stella Maris Hotel. Their conference room boasts a lovely mural of the various summit routes. We chose the 8-day Lemosho Route. For a full itinerary of the climb (and to follow along!) click here.


Starting elevation : 2,100m or 6,889ft.


There were a total of 10 clients on the climb. The climbers came from all over the world: the United States, Canada, Japan, and Singapore. Funny enough – two of the climbers live in Ohio about 25 minutes from Joe’s parents!


On the mountain, we felt like a moving city. We were supported by 4 guides, 2 cooks, and 32 porters—totaling 48 people.


Each porter was assigned a 20kg (45lb) bag containing “group gear,” such as tents, food, chairs, and overnight gear. This bag was to be carried in addition to the personal gear items in their backpacks. Despite all of this extra weight, they were still running (climbing) laps around us clients.


We enjoyed the company of 4 local guides. It was a great joy to share this journey with them. They shared not only their wisdom about the mountain, but also about their family, traditions, and tribal heritage. We were so blessed!


The climb starts in the beautiful rainforest that sits at the base of the mountain.
This rainforest ecosystem is roughly found between elevations of 6,000-9,200 ft. For a full description of these ecosystems, click here.


Can you find the climbers in all this lush greenery?


Usnea, the scientific name of this bearded lichen, reminded me of the Spanish moss of the southern US.


The next ecosystem we reached was the heath zone. Notice the change in the vegetation. The heath zone is found between elevations of 9,200-11,000ft.


Days 1 & 2 were fairly easy. We mostly enjoyed the beautiful views and rode the ups and downs of the trail.

By FAR the greatest treat each day was coming home to a camp that was already set up by our fabulous porters and a warm meal cooked by our skilled chefs.


Each of us was paired with a “personal porter.” This porter carried our sleeping gear, extra gear, and other items that we didn’t need access to during the day. I was matched with Tumaini. He greeted me at the end of every day with a high-five, a smile, and an open hand. I was grateful for his never-failing positivity.


Joe’s personal porter was Emanuel. Emanuel was always quick with a smile and a thumbs-up. He was often shoulder-to-shoulder with Tumaini welcoming us both to our new home for the night. Not only did he take fabulous care of Joe, but he was eager to help others around the camp as well.


Day 3 took us into the moorland ecosystem (found between 11,000-13,200ft elevation).


The grasses became shorter, as did our breaths. 13,580ft is nothing to laugh at. WHEW!

At the end of Day 3, we did what is called an “acclimatization hike.” This is where we hiked to a higher elevation to adjust to the altitude, and then climbed back down to go to sleep. Climbing a mountain is work!


…but it offers some fabulous views.


One side effect of Diamox, our altitude medicine, is that it makes you have to pee a lot. One of the perks of this side effect is that you have ample opportunities to appreciate the night sky during pee breaks.


…just avoid the ice in the journey.


Day 4 was one of the longest days. This took us up above 15,000ft to the base of the lava tower, then back to 13,044ft for camp.


The coolest parts of the moorland ecosystem were the really cool plants, some of which are only found on Kilimanjaro. Many reminded us of Dr. Seuss trees.


BIG Dr. Seuss trees…


Day 5 was the steepest day by far. Our rock climbing skills came in handy in a few of these gulleys.


Each day brought us closer and closer to the summit.


Joe can just reach out and touch it!


Day 6 brought us squarely in the alpine desert zone –no more trees (or many other plants) here! The alpine desert runs from roughly 13,000ft-16,500 ft


We look like we are on the moon!


After the sun set on Day 6, we rested for a few hours then started for the summit!


By the time the sun rose on day 7, we had been hiking for 6 hours and were above 18,000ft in elevation. Not long after, I had difficulty breathing and turned around for camp.


Two hours later, the rest of the crew reached the summit point. Joe brought some pretty important people along with him—in his heart.


I promise that Kelsey is under there somewhere…


I can’t neglect to highlight the highest ecological zone! The arctic summit (16,500ft-19,341ft)—almost no plants or animals (aside from thrill-seeking humans) are found this high!


We rounded out Day 7 with a 12km hike downhill.


It’s amazing how quickly the elevation melted away. 6.5 days up…1.5 days down!


Our last night with the crew was also Christmas. Our chefs made a special cake and traditional meal to celebrate the climb and the holiday.


It was as delicious as it looks.
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After over a week on the mountain, an epic climb, and joyous camaraderie, it was time to say tearful goodbye. No major sub-Saharan African event would be complete, however, without a little singing and celebration. Please enjoy this Kilimanjaro send-off by our excellent team.



The song is in Swahili. There are over 100 other languages spoken in Tanzania, but Swahili has risen to be the common or unifying tongue between tribes and groups. During the climb, we picked up a few phrases of Swahili that we thought would be fun to share. If you listen closely, you hear many of these in the song (along with the names of our nightly campsites and the summit).
  • Jambo (pronounced “jahm-boe”) – Hello.
  • Mambo? (pronounced “mahm-boe”) – How are you?
  • Poa (pronounced “poh-ah”) – Good/Cool.
  • Poa kachizi kama ndizi (pronounced “poh-ah kah-cheezee koh-mah ndeezee”) – I’m crazy cool like a banana.
  • Hakuna matata (you all know this one…) – No worries or no problem.
  • Ahsante sana (pronounced “ah-sahn-tay sah-nah”) – Thank you very much.
  • Karibu (pronounced “kah-ree-boo”) – Welcome/You’re welcome.
  • Nzuri sana (pronounced “nzur-ree sah-nah”) – Very delicious/good.
  • Pole, pole (pronounced “poh-lay, poh-lay”) – Slowly, slowly.
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Closing Reflections
This trip was pretty epic, but it would not have been possible without the work of so many porters and crew behind the scenes. The summit photos and stories always glorify the clients, their struggles, and their accomplishments along the route. Our guides make this summit 2-3 times per month. The porters carry about 3-4 times as much weight as the clients do. All 38 of them sacrificed their Christmas celebrations (and end-of-year festivities which are so very important in the Chagga culture) just to make our summit dreams possible and share their beautiful mountain with us. There can never be enough praise or recognition for the physically and emotionally exhausting work these team members do. Ahsante, ahsante, ahsante sana.

I would not have been on this climb if it hadn't been for Joe (and Diamox). I am grateful for a partner who pushes me towards adventures that are beyond my imagination. I was very anxious leading up to the climb, but I appreciate his patience and the grace and encouragement of so many friends and family members to lace up my boots and hike on.

There is so much beauty in this world. We just have to make it a priority to witness it.

So much love.

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