Five Things that Really Stood Out After I Returned Home

I started participating in the BloggingAbroad.org Re-Entry Blog Challenge a couple of weeks ago.  It's purpose is two-fold: 1) to provide insights for people who are wondering what it's like to return home after having spent time abroad, and 2) to provide a space for those who have been abroad to process their experience returning home.  You can read my first post here.  This iteration of the challenge is about five things that really stood out after I returned home.  The things I outline below are the first ones I either wrote in my journal or remember talking about with others.

1. Being able to understand (virtually) everything people around me were saying.

While many people in my village in South Africa spoke English, it was common that people would use their home language when having casual conversation or participating in a meeting.  With my limited ability to speak isiZulu, I found myself often giving up trying to translate what felt like rapid isiZulu.  The conversation would fade into other ambient sounds.

When I returned to the US, I had a layover in Chicago where I spent time with a couple of friends.  We went to dinner to grab some Chicago-style, deep dish pizza, which I had been craving for a long time.  While were at dinner, I couldn't help by notice my attention straying from our table to the tables around us.  I also noticed I was having a hard time focusing on any one particular table.  This is when I donned on me that I could understand everything that was being said around me!  For the first time in over two years, I could understand everything because everyone was speaking English.  And instead of tuning out the conversations, I found that I wanted to tune in.  I'm not one for eavesdropping, but now I wanted to listen in simply because of the novelty that I could.

This renewed sense of understanding was fun and exciting at first, but then the overwhelm creeped in because being able to understand everything meant I could understand everything.  I was bombarded.  I felt my energy being scattered trying to keep up with all of the conversations.  Over time, thankfully, I have learned to focus my attention again and now have control of when I tune in, tune out, and choose when I engage.  I feel like one of the X-men learning how to control her/his superpower.

Xavier Teaching Erik (Magneto) to Control His Superpower

2. Idioms are confusing.

Idiom. noun. a group of words established by usage as having a meaning not deducible from those of the individual words (e.g., rain cats and dogs, see the light). (Google search).

I admit I used idioms while I was in South Africa; especially when I first arrived.  However, as time progressed, I used them less and less because it took more time explaining what they meant instead of using language that was more direct and literal.

Why would the cat be there in the first place?

The first time I experienced hearing an idiom in the US was in Chicago during the layover.  My friend picked me up from the airport and we got into a conversation about writing, and he told me a story about a time his mom "tore apart" a story he had written.  When he said this, my mind immediately starting picturing his mom literally tearing apart his story; little bits of paper flying everywhere.  It took me a minute to realize I had this image, so I replayed what he said again in my mind and it was then I recognized that he meant his mom edited his story and, by the combination of the words he used, probably meant there were a lot of edits.  I laughed; mostly at myself for the misunderstanding and a little because it made me wonder if this was what South Africans had experienced when I used idioms.

3. Signage.

Signs were (and are) everywhere in the US.  I mentioned bombardment above about being able to hear English everywhere.  Signs meant I could see English everywhere.  This was a whole other level of stimulation.  I remember walking through the airports in Chicago and Cleveland staring at various signs trying to figure out where to go and not quite understanding because some of the signs either felt like they were competing against each other or I was supposed to infer a larger meaning (e.g. a sign pointing down and left meant I was supposed to go down a flight of stairs to the left of the sign - go figure!)

Hmmm... What is one to do?

When I thought signs at the airport were challenging enough, I was met with street signs.  Stop, go, one-way, yield, street names, temporary parking only, and on and on.  There were street signs in South Africa, but not nearly as many, and, besides, most of the time I was a passenger riding in a khumbi (i.e. taxi) so I didn't pay much attention.  Thankfully, the worst that resulted from reading/interpreting all of these signs was a parking ticket.  I got one for parking on the side of the street during the time it was designated for street cleaning.  And here I thought I was lucky to get such a good spot!

4. Options.

I had heard from many Returned Peace Corps Volunteers that the number of options at the grocery store could be overwhelming.  Knowing this and experiencing it proved to be very different things.  My first time experiencing it was at the grocery store was with my mom and sister.  We were at the deli counter.  I was excited to pick out meats and cheeses I hadn't had since I left.  After a couple of minutes of staring at the case, I turned back to my mom and sister who were standing next to the cart and asked if one of them could help me.  I told them I wanted turkey and cheddar, but I couldn't choose which one.  There were too many choices: smoked turkey, mesquite smoked turkey, honey turkey, peppered turkey, and that didn't get into the different brands, and that was just the turkey!  While was standing at the case, my eyes kept darting from one to the next and it was making me feel anxious.  The rest of the time in the grocery store continued in the same vein - me telling them what I wanted to eat and one of them picking out what they thought was best.

Barry Schwartz has a book about the overwhelm felt by having too many options called The Paradox of Choice.  You can also watch his Ted Talk to get a sense of his argument:

5. Pace of life, conversation, thinking.
Re-introducing myself to the pace of life in the US wasn't a new phenomenon having experienced it once before after coming back from a study abroad in Ecuador.  (Oh, how I missed siestas when I came back!)  I guess the hard part this time was my attempt at trying to hold onto the pace of South African life.  Asking people, "Unjani?" (How are you?) and meaning it.  The answer to this question varied depending where I was along Michelle's and my road trip from the South to the Midwest to the Pacific Northwest, which in turn denoted the amount of time someone was willing to give us.  Even moreso was the pace of the conversation - faster, slower, somewhere in the middle.  I had to tune my ears differently depending on a person's pace of speech.  I often found myself at least a couple of seconds behind on jokes and it was worse for sarcasm (another form of using words beyond a literal meaning; see above for idioms).

Even harder still was the pace at which people seemed to be thinking.  I guess these could have been instances of me comparing my inside to other people's outsides, but I felt like I was thinking more slowly!  I felt like all of what my brain had coming in was making it harder to produce a response that matched the quickness of others.  This feeling happened in waves.  The first wave was during our road trip, adjusting to the varied conversations and interactions with family and friends.  The second occurred when I arrived in Seattle, getting settled into our new home and meeting new people.  The third wave, and perhaps the hardest one, was at work.  Conversations seemed to happen so fast, with topics passing in what felt like the blink of an eye.  Moments to make decisions came quickly and I struggled under the pressure of deciding and trying to doing so while feeling informed.  I'm still feeling this effect, but it's getting easier.  I'm also getting better at asking for time to think.

Missing My Hammock Back in Manguzi

This post is part of BloggingAbroad.org's Re-Entry Blog Challenge.

Three Things I Made Sure I Did When I Arrived Home

It's been about six months since Michelle and I arrived home after serving in the Peace Corps in South Africa. Being aware of reverse culture shock and the U-W curve and having even helped students work through the transition of returning home after having studied abroad, I still find I am subject to the difficulties of the transition: the high's and low's, feelings of happiness, excitement, sadness and loss, and wondering about how I currently live aligns (or doesn't) with my values. This post is the beginning of an(other) attempt at trying to process through these thoughts and feelings. It's inspired by the After Abroad Blog Challenge. You could follow the link at the bottom of this post to read more about it.

This post's challenge: What are the first things you made sure to do when you arrived home?

Hugged My Family.

I am incredibly grateful that I got to see my parents while I was abroad.  They came to visit for a couple of weeks during my second year there.  Despite having just seen them, though, I still missed them greatly.  I missed my siblings immensely too, and I didn't see them the entire time I was gone.  We have always been a close family, so it was hard to be separated by so many miles.  I'm also grateful for the technology that allowed us to stay connected, but there's nothing like being in the presence of the people who are closest to your heart.

The Fam at Lake Erie

Phoned My South African Family

Before leaving South Africa, I participated in the incoming Education group's training by facilitating a few sessions.  This meant I left my village a couple of weeks prior to actually leaving the country, so there was a delay in the telling my South African family (host family and teachers) I was back in the US.  They were aware of my plans; however, it still felt a little strange to say my goodbyes and still remain in the country a little longer.  When I got back to the US, I didn't have access to a cell phone for a few days, which meant I couldn't contact my South African family right away.  When I did get a phone, though, the first thing I did with it was to contact them to let them know I was okay.  They were relieved to hear I was safe and expressed how they already missed me.  I had already missed them too.

The Host Family

Laughed with Friends.

As part of our homecoming, Michelle and I planned another epic road trip like the one we had done before leaving for the Peace Corps; except this time, we were going to drive it in reverse from Texas and Louisiana, up to Ohio, and across to Washington.  Along the way, we made plans to stop and see our friends.  It felt so, so great to see them.  It was also kind of funny in that in the two years in between visits it donned on us that anything could have happened because in the same amount of time we might have gone without seeing each other due to the fact that we're all spread throughout the country.  But then reality sunk in and that there were changes: some of us had been abroad, some of us had children, some of us changed jobs, and all of us experienced life changes.  It was wonderful reconnecting with our friends and reminding ourselves that love extends beyond family.

Old Friends

New Friends

*This post is part of BloggingAbroad.org's Re-Entry Blog Challenge.

It's Weird to Be Back...

Joe and I officially became Returned Peace Corps Volunteers (RPCVs) on August 24, 2016...

Our "official" COS (close of service) photo...

...and our super-fun Peace Corps family photos.

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We left South Africa and embarked on a beautiful, tearful, magical three week road trip where we were blessed to visit our phenomenally supportive, loving (and patient) family and friends.

We were reminded of all of the "life" we have missed by being far away: little children who are now giants compared to their former selves, babies that never existed before we left, the absence of loved ones who have passed on, the day-to-day living of lives.

It also took me nearly two weeks to fully grasp that, despite it feeling like an awesome vacation, I was not going to be returning to my village, my learners, my host family, my coworkers, or any aspect of the life I left behind in South Africa.

Thus, I ended the road trip feeling very disoriented and lost. My head was spinning with all that was missed, and all that I lived that my family had missed, and all that I would never live again.

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And finally, we arrived in Seattle. I had lunch with old friends. I visited my old colleagues and picked up right where we left off. It felt like, aside from some new faces and a GIANT new building, the two year gap never happened.

At first that felt beautiful, and then it felt...weird

It was weird to have it feel weird... so I wanted to understand why. And this is what I have come up with so far...

I do not know how I have changed, yet. These two years have been so important and meaningful to me that to even the mildest unacknowledgment (making that a word...) of it feels like a dishonor to all that was lived and all that was shared (between us and our host community), discovered, and sacrificed (by ourselves and our supporters) to make it happen. I haven't taken the time or the space to reflect on all of this and make a new meaning of the world around me, yet. Until then, I feel this weird disconnect between my soul and my body. I don't know the new "me" that I am, and that is terrifying.

So, I feel scattered and unconfident and speak rambling gibberish as my frantic brain works overtime to build connections and pathways around new paradigms and ways of being.

I am working to reflect in stages through my own guiding prompts. And there is one thing that I know after my first journaling session...
i am held.

My first reflection product.

I am held by a community who loves me and will churn out housing options, job postings, and messages of hope when I am feeling down. I am held by the higher powers of the universe (god, goddess, ancestors, whatever label one might use). I am held by my partner who is there for me, ride or die. I am held.

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Thank you for holding me.

A New School Has Begun

The new school year began last week, and, with it, some changes at school. Some of the changes relate to my direct responsibilities and others relate to observations I have made.

Firstly, how have my responsibilities changed from last school year to this school year? Last year, my main responsibility was to teach three English classes. Most of my time was occupied here. With what time I had remaining, I assisted with an assortment of assignments ranging from coaching the school’s debate team to fulfilling various requests from teachers. Basically, my focus was to teach learners English.

This school year, my focus has shifted from largely focusing on the learners to devoting more of my time to working more directly with the teachers. For example, I’m now co-teaching two English classes with two different teachers. This allows me to work with them one-on-one planning lessons, brainstorming teaching and classroom management strategies, and reflecting on how classes went. I’m also facilitating professional development workshops with the teachers. We just had one the other day about using Microsoft Excel to set up a gradebook. It was great! Aside from teaching inside and outside the classroom, I’m working on the school’s library. The library has come a long way over the last few months with the addition of several thousand books and its organization. The next steps there include training learners to be Library Helpers and utilizing the library to capitalize on school’s recent addition of a reading period to the school’s timetable*.

Since the school year has started, I have also made a few observations; some I hoped for and others I wasn’t anticipating. For example, one that I was hoping for was that the learners would be familiar to my teaching style. This translates into actively participating in class, following classroom procedures, and learners speaking at an audible volume (the learners spoke so softly when I first started in the classroom that I had a difficult time hearing them). I had heard from previous volunteers that it’s much easier teaching the second year than it is during the first. So far, this has rung true for me. Last year, it took all of Term 1 and most, if not all, of Term 2 for the learners to follow procedures. On the first day of school this year, the learners didn’t need much prodding for them to remember. After a couple of days, it was smooth sailing.

The other day, I had a confirmation of an observation I made during the previous school year regarding attention spans. In my Grade 5 class last year, the learners could concentrate with minimal distraction for about 40 minutes. Well, the teacher who’s teaching Grade 5 English this year was going to be out for the day, so I said I could cover the class. The class was going fairly well for a while, but then a few learners started talking, a learner got out of his seat without permission, and learners started asking to use the toilet. I glanced down at my watch to make note of the time and sure enough it had been about 40 minutes since the class started.

One pleasant and unexpected observation I have made so far was the ease with which the learners have understood my accent. In my Grade 7 class, I have four new learners who transferred in from other schools. I noticed they were having a hard time understanding me, so I tried asking the learner sitting next to them for help. The learner repeated what I said and the learner who couldn’t understand then got it. This was happening again and again with the new learners. At first, I didn’t understand why this was happening because my other learners could understand me just fine. And then it hit me – my accent! These new learners weren’t used to my accent. I then remembered things I did last year like clearly and crisply pronouncing each part of words and slowing down my pace. Once I did this, the learners started having an easier time. There was a cool transformation that I hadn’t realized took place with my learners last year – their ability to understand my accent – until I was with new learners.

These are some of the observations I have made at school and it’s only been two weeks. I’m curious to see how the next few months go – both with my direct responsibilities and with observations I make with the learners. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the majority will be positive.

Here's a fun video I took of a few learners from my school having fun "sledding" while I was walking home at the end of the day.  Ahhh, to be a kid again...

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* timetable – class schedule

Joe’s 18-Month Reflection

As has been my custom, I have written a reflection about my time in South Africa every six months. This one marks my third overarching reflection.

Looking back over the last few months, I observed I hadn’t written as much as I had previously. Pondering the cause, I realized it was because of a renewed sense of normalcy; one I hadn’t felt since before traveling from my home in the US and making a life for myself here in South Africa.

A New Normal
Of all the times I have moved to a new place, it has taken about a year for that new place to feel like home. Baldwin-Wallace, Baltimore, Colorado State, Tacoma… each place felt foreign for a time, until the familiarity of repetition through events brought recognition. In my present circumstances, that familiarity wasn’t truly felt until around the celebration of Heritage Day (held in September). It was at about this time in 2014 when I first arrived in my present site. The learners and teachers dressed in the garb of their tribes, traditional songs and dances were performed, and a meal was shared among kith and kin. I had the honor of bearing witness, and this time participating, in the celebration for a second time.

Prior to it, however, I felt restless, and even lost to a degree, because I had not seen what it was like to live in my permanent site the year before. I had reached the year-mark in South Africa (in July) but not a full year where I was presently living. I was still in a state of change; a state of newness. Living like that left me wondering what was in store each day and wondering what uniqueness would present itself to me.

My Cohort and I at Mid-Service Training

Thankfully, I had Michelle, my host family, my colleagues and learners at school, and fellow volunteers upon whom I could lean for support. It was the relationships I had been built with them that showed me through that time.

And then familiarity came… At school, I was starting to see lessons from the previous year and talk of preparations for what would be my second Grade R Graduation and Grade 7 Farewell was heard. At home, the mango tree started to fruit again. Most easily noticed was the change in weather – warmer, hotter temperatures, humidity thick and heavy as a wet, woolen blanket, and frequent rain showers – the signs of the approaching rainy season.

Standing with One of My Grade 7 Learners at the Farewell

With the familiarity of repetition came a comfort. My permanent site felt the most like home as it  ever had. I no longer felt like a visitor but, instead, like someone who lived here. Unfortunately, there was another feeling that came coupled with it all – boredom.

As my family and friends will attest, I typically don’t do well with boredom. I ask myself questions like, “What should I do now?” or “Is it time to move on?” In respect to my current home, what once seemed novel and interesting now seemed… regular. I found myself feeling uninspired and unsure of what to write and share with people back home. Would they still find my life here interesting or has the novelty worn off for them as well?

Girding this feeling, thankfully, was a sense of responsibility. I had committed myself to serving 27 months with the Peace Corps. Not that I was ever contemplating leaving early, but it served as a reminder that I was here to serve, which meant thinking about what I was going to do with myself in the time that remained:

• a library to finish setting up
• co-teaching with some of my colleagues
• hosting workshops for teachers
• teaching learners English
• instilling in learners senses of self-confidence, resilience, and perseverance
• spending time with my host-family and the kids who live next door
• doing what I can to share the beauty of South Africa and its people with family and friends

Michelle and Charlie at the Lake

Moving Forward
There are nine months left until the completion of my service with the Peace Corps. It is my aim to fulfill each of the tasks mentioned above. Throughout all of, it is also my intention to chronicle my experience; partly for anyone who reads this blog and... partly for my own memory, so, in the future, I can look back upon my time as a Peace Corps Volunteer and remember the finer points of my experience; the ones that give it its depth and detail.

Michelle's 18-Month Reflection: How Do I Explain This?

My words are flying through my fingertips

They splatter on the blank wall like a Jackson Pollock

forming a 2-dimensional imitation,

a misshapen shadow of the vivid spirit that fills my life.

—a farce.

I try to catch them, to sculpt them into something more real, more authentic.

I will my words to hold the shape of children’s laughter on the school ground,

to mould each vein on my gogo’s hands

as she grinds the mealies in a hallowed out tree trunk.

to form the pit in my stomach of self-doubt and uncertainty

as I tippy-toe around my role as guest, collaborator, contributor, and friend.

My fingertips would form a swollen heart filled with love and pride and loyalty.

Loyalty.

A sense of shared destiny, of belonging to one another, like brother and sister,

yet being apart.

A visitor at home.

Try as I may, my lexis fails me and my words fall flat. 

I will endeavor, in the future, to bring life to my language and better honour the soul of the phenomena that surround and hold me here.

 

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Joe has pointed out that we have kept a pattern of posting a broader personal reflection every 6 months. The theme of my reflection is my inadequacy in relaying the soul of this experience to you, the reader. I am feeling and living so many raw and real things and it often feels like a minimization or an injustice to try and put them down on paper. I get caught up in trying to say it right, get it right. Torn between writing as self-expression and writing as an explanation. My words fail me, but I promise to try harder in these last months here.

Because sometimes getting it down imperfectly is better than letting it pass, disregarded, as though it never happened.

Reflections about Training for a Marathon

The Two Oceans Marathon is one of the biggest races in South Africa (second to the Comrades Marathon). On our way back from Cape Town in April, Michelle and I met someone who ran the Two Oceans. We were waiting for our taxi to fill at a taxi rank in Durban when a man walked up wearing running shoes, running shorts, and a technical Tee; none of which are normal attire for men in our village. Out of curiosity, I asked the man if he had run the Two Oceans Marathon. He excitedly answered that he had, and thus began our multi-hour conversation about running while we rode the taxi back to our village.

My conversation with the runner, as well as observations I made while I trained to run the Victoria Falls Marathon, got me thinking about what it takes to train for a marathon in rural South Africa compared to in the US.

Context
Running seems to occur in two forms in my village: children playing together or boys/men playing soccer. It’s rare to see woman play soccer. It’s even rarer to see villagers running for the sake of running.

The Soccer Team at Joe's School

The Runner I met on the taxi while going back to my village was an exception. Seeing as how I hadn’t observed other villagers running just to run, I was curious to see why he ran. What ended up being more interesting was what it took for him to be able to run and compete in races.

Race Registration
I have heard many people say that running is a cheap sport, which can be true if one doesn’t participate in any races. However, if one does strive to complete and, even further, compete like the Runner I met, money becomes a factor. For example, in the US, race registration can range from $15 for a local 5k to over $150 for a marathon (not including travel and accommodations if one travels for a race). In South Africa, races vary in price as well. In addition to paying for race registration, runners need to maintain a running license to compete in races and, in some cases, belong to a registered running club.

Joe Taught His Learners (Both Girls and Boys!) How to Play Ultimate Frisbee

Equipment
Further, there’s running equipment: shoes, socks, shorts, pants, short-sleeve technical Tees, long-sleeve technical Tees, beanie, gloves, stopwatch (or satellite watch), etc. While it isn’t necessary to run with most of these items, it becomes harder to compete on a national level with other runners when one doesn’t use them. These items are widely available throughout the US. Virtually all major US cities, and many towns for that matter, have whole stores dedicated to running. Since arriving in South Africa, I have only seen one running store and it was in Pretoria, several hours from my village. There are a few chains that specialize in sports that carry running gear; however, the selection is limited. I also recognize that I’m still getting to know the country, so there may be stores I haven’t yet discovered. The point here is that my village does NOT have a running store, so the Runner has to travel at least a few hours (by taxi) to get to one.

Nutrition
Then there’s nutrition. US stores carry a variety of foods that are used by runners. And not just running stores. Grocery stores and department stores carry running food. In my village, I found sports drinks (most of which contain too much sugar in my opinion) or Energade jellies. With an absence of easy-to-go foods, one has to be cleverer about how to refuel during a run.

Many Families Grow Mealies (i.e. Corn) to Supplement Their Nutrition

Running gels and bars aside, a well-balanced, nutritious diet requires access to protein, healthy fats, fruits, vegetables, and carbohydrates. This was an important issue for the Runner because he highlighted that it’s common to see villagers eating pap (a food most akin to grits) and chicken with gravy. While the chicken is a good source of protein, pap is mostly eaten as a filler because it’s cheap. Given that the unemployment rate in my village hovers at about 50%, a lot of people eat pap.

Donations
While I was talking with the Runner, I learned that he was “sponsored” by people in my shopping town. In addition to using a portion of his income, he also went to local businesses and the hospital to ask for donations. The Runner was humbled by people’s generosity because he said he wouldn’t be able to run without their help. Leading up to a race, he goes door-to-door asking for donations, which he uses to pay for the items I mentioned above – race registration, equipment, and food – as well as travel and accommodations. When he returns from the race, he makes it a point to visit everyone who donated; no matter the amount. The Runner shows them his race bib, photos that were taken during the race, and any medals he earned.

Catching the Last of the Sunlight after an Early Evening Run

The Payoff
The Runner is sort of like a local hero. The people in my shopping town and the surrounding villages take pride in what he has done and how he represents our area. Not only does he represent the area, he represents it well. As the taxi pulled away from the rank, the Runner was pleased to show me the medal he was awarded for finishing within the top 100 of the race where thousands of people compete. Not too shabby for a guy from the village.

Joe’s 12-Month Reflection

On 3 July, Michelle and I celebrated our first year living in South Africa. It was a big milestone. Interestingly, we were with several other Peace Corps Volunteers that day preparing to host workshops for the next group of incoming education volunteers. Thinking about their arrival got me thinking about the experiences I have had since I arrived one year ago. A few reflections surfaced.

Normalcy
In quick succession, I moved away from Tacoma, took a road across the US to visit family and friends before departing for South Africa, met the other volunteers with whom I would spend the next two years fulfilling Peace Corps’ mission, flew across the Atlantic, spent two months training and living with my first host family, moved to my permanent site, formed relationships with colleagues at my school and my new host family, and taught two academic terms. Phew!

A Panorama of Our Training Village

For most of that time, I was met with newness, difference, novelty, and change. It was exciting and exhausting. And for most of that time, I felt like a visitor; someone who was here only temporarily. In the back of my mind sat the reality that I was only going to be here for a short while. At first, I found this thought energizing because it gave each day a sense of urgency – to make a difference, to teach a learner, to talk with a teacher or villager or member of my host family—to do something. What I found, though, is that this elevated level of determination left me feeling fatigued.

Sometime during the second academic term, I started to relax and sought to make a difference where I could but also allowed myself the grace to be okay with not necessarily doing anything. Figuring out how to do that isn’t easy for me and it’s something I’m constantly working on.

Another observation I noticed during the second academic term was that the conversations I was having with my colleagues at school were changing. They were becoming deeper. When I first arrived, the teachers were friendly, warm, and welcoming. Now, they were talking with me about bigger life issues: how they saw teaching making a difference in the lives of learners, family concerns, and life passions. It was a profound feeling because it made me feel like I belonged. I was no longer an outsider, but South Africa was now my home.

With this feeling of home, my life started to feel normal. I knew what to expect out of each day. I knew where to buy groceries. I felt closer to my host family and I was making friends. I felt comfortable.

Detached Investment
I mentioned above that I felt a sense of urgency. This feeling presented itself mostly at my school where I felt like I needed to get projects rolling (and completed). One of the most common mistakes committed by Peace Corps Volunteers is working on projects independently. This mistake hurts the long-term impact of a volunteer’s presence because it’s not sustainable. The host country nationals (the people whom a volunteer is here to serve) don’t learn anything about the project and worse still is that the HCNs normally don’t feel connected to the project. (Michelle talks about this in her 12-month reflection.)

   

Eating Breakfast during One of My First Days at My Permanent Site

Fortunately, I recognized the feeling and didn’t indulge the impulse. Instead, I tried planting seeds within my colleagues and regularly revisited conversations with them about goals we were trying to accomplish. This change in behavior was trying for me because with it came frustration, impatience, and, to some degree, hopelessness. I had to remind myself that these weren’t MY projects but OUR projects and, even further, to keep from being the lead. I started thinking about my approach as a “detached investment”. While I would invest myself into whatever projects the principal, teachers, and I thought were the most important, I would remind myself that the principal and teachers needed to be the main drivers and I filled the role of the supporter.

I did a pretty good job at not taking charge of projects when I first arrived at my school, but it was becoming increasingly more difficult because I was being asked to do more things by my principal and fellow teachers. I felt like I/we were losing sight about why I was here.

To help navigate these situations, I started asking myself, “How does this connect to the reasons I’m here?” It helped to ask my colleagues as well. I’m still working on this with them, but I have noticed that it’s causing them to be more reflective and cognizant about the finite amount of time I’m here.

Over the Hump
With one year in, I feel like I’m over the hump – I feel like I can do this. This assuredness wavered back in January because it was a particularly tough month. Several volunteers, some of whom were close to me, left South Africa to go home. It made me question whether I would be able to serve the full 27 months because what would I do if things got too tough? There was a part of me that wished I didn’t know quitting was an option because it would mean that I would have to face “the difficulty”.

Six months later, I feel more confident about finishing my service, and at this point unless something absolutely horrendous happens to either Michelle or me, I don’t see any reason why I would go home early.

Friends - What a Great Support Network!

A Time to Reinvest
While I’m glad that I now feel comfortable in my new home, I know now is the time to reinvest myself. I still plan to practice balancing urgency with self-grace, but I also plan to deepen relationships with my host family, colleagues at school, and friends in the community. I plan to dig deeper into the culture and I’m going to do so by trying to speak more isiZulu in my everyday interactions. I’m also going to try not to fill my schedule too full because I want there to be space for the unexpected things that will help make my time here memorable.

How to Train for a Marathon (When You Live in a Rural, South African Village)

The following are a few tips about training for a marathon when one lives in a rural South African village (as is often the case for Peace Corps Volunteers).*

Safety
PCVs receive useful training about how to be safe and to mitigate risks during their term of service. Apply these skills even while you’re running. Know your surroundings. Get to know people along your routes so that you build a safety network. Make sure someone knows where you’re going and how long you plan to be gone. Maintain respect for the culture by staying modestly dressed (e.g. keep your shirt on even when it’s tempting to cool down without one). Pay attention to the time the sun sets (you don’t want to get caught running in the dark).

Set Goals
Forty-two point two kilometers (or 26.2 miles for those not on the metric system) is a long, and potentially daunting, distance. Set smaller goals that feed into the larger goal of completing a marathon. For example, run a 5k (3.1 miles), 10k (6.2 miles), 21.1k (13.1 miles/half-marathon), or 30k (18.6 miles). If possible, try running races with these distances (see here for a listing or ask around). They’ll get you running with other people and get you in the race mindset.

Building and Maintaining a Base
It took me a long time to build up to 42.2k, and I noticed that my body went through some changes as it happened. Pushing too hard too soon could result in injuries. You’ll also need to get used to running 3-4 days per week. Ease into running longer distances. If you’re feeling pressured to up the distance because you want to do a particular race, consider waiting until the following year or running a different one.

My Running Log

Running Groups
Ask around your village to see if there is an established running group. NedBank keeps a listing of all of the running groups in South Africa (click here for the list). You could also check with the local hospital or clinic. I also created a WhatsApp group called Running South Africa to connect with other PCVs who like to run. (Let me know if you'd like to join!) Running groups are great for motivation, support, and accountability. If a running group doesn’t exist, start one! It could be a great secondary project.

Nutrition
If you’re like me, your diet changes when you become a PCV. It can be due to a number of differing factors: access to meat and produce, ability to refrigerate, and how you choose to spend your Peace Corps living allowance. Despite these factors, proper nutrition is key to supply your body with the energy it needs to run and to recover after the run. Look around your village to see what foods are available. While the grocery store might not have energy gels, it may have bread, peanut butter, bananas, and milk; all great items to fuel a run and eat after you’re done.

Enjoying a Breakfast Taco after a Long, Morning Run

Heat
Many PCVs in South Africa live in areas that get really hot (above 25° C (or 80° F)). My ideal running temperature is 10°C (or 50°F). Fifteen degrees is a big jump! If you find yourself in this situation, run slower and increase your fluid intake. I carry a water bottle with me and I keep some money in my pocket in case I need to buy something to drink.

Vary Your Workout
“Hills are like vegetables. You may not like them, but they’re good for you.” This is a mantra I recite to myself whenever I’m doing a hill workout. The same goes for speed workouts too. It’s tempting to run the same route over and over again. However, your body will get used to it and you’ll plateau. Running hills and doing speed workouts will prepare your body for the different route conditions it might face on race day. They’ll help with building strength, recovery, and rounding out your physical condition. If you find that you live in a flat area like me, squats make for an adequate substitute to hills.

Boredom
Separate from varying your workouts with short runs, long runs, hills, and speed workouts, vary your routes as well. Running the same path repeatedly can become monotonous and, thus, de-motivating. Changing your route keeps your mind awake and alert, and the change also means your body has to work a little differently. Running with a group helps with boredom, but, if that’s not an option, running with music can help too. Just be careful to not listen to music too loudly because you want to be able to hear oncoming traffic, as well as be able to shout “hello” back to villagers when they greet you as you run by.

Keep Routes Interesting!

Grass Mat
When I first moved into my house, I thought it made for nice decoration. Much to my delight, the mat doubles excellently as a quasi-yoga mat. I use it while I stretch, work on my core, and cool down. I love my grass mat!

Listen to Your Body
You know your body best. While others may be able to give advice about what to do about various aches and pains, you’re going to be the first person to discover when something isn’t going well. Pay attention to how you feel both during your run and after and make adjustments as needed. Likewise, if you feel like you can run a little farther or a little faster, go for it – see what you can do.

Be Kind to Yourself
Part of the adjustment to living in the village includes fetching water, washing clothes by hand, and various other chores that take a considerable amount of time and energy. It’s important to be excited about running instead of feeling likes it’s another thing to do on your checklist. If you feel tired from working on your primary project or from carrying groceries back from your shopping town, show yourself grace by taking a break and storing energy for a run later in the day or perhaps the next day.


We Want to Hear from You!
What tips do you have for running? What has worked for you? What hasn’t worked for you? What are your favorite foods to eat while you’re running? Please share in the comments below!


*Please note: I am amateur runner. The above tips are based on my personal experiences and should be taken with a high level of discretion.

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Running Resources

Runner’s World: good for advice and news about running

Runners' Guide: list of races throughout South Africa and neighboring countries

NedBank Running Club: list of running clubs throughout South Africa

Coach to 5k: programs to get started running

Trail Running: good for advice and news about trail running

Michelle's 1-Year Reflection: A Father's Advice

"Over time the novelty of the experience wears off and one day becomes just like the last, new news becomes less apparent as life finds its routine. 

I hope it doesn't happen too fast, and that each day you find something of a surprise.  Resist the mundane and find magic in each moment."
- David Harper, my daddy, August 7, 2014

The Harper clan in front of the Berlin Wall, 1990

A Little Nostalgic Context
If anyone could offer advice on how to adapt to life (as an adult) in a new country, it would be my mom and dad. We spent a lot of our life moving from culture to culture and place to place. In each place, they made an effort to learn the history and culture. My mom took German lessons from a neighbour friend and kept in touch with them for years. My dad is the perpetual explorer, seeking new information and history at each stop. Add a little revelry and that's a perfect snapshot of their life together. 

As their child, I learned how to take advantage of cultural exchanges in our community. I went to an all-German-zero-English kindergarten. My brother took French immersion classes. We would visit our neighbour's farm in England and "help" them with their lambs (I say "help" because it was more "watch" or "get in the way" than helping). 

I also remember going on infinite car trips, because they taught us (and I still believe this is true) that you cannot know a country until you SEE the country, explore its history, and meet its people. By 5 years old, I was an old pro at car games: license plates, the alphabet game, and "cows" (a game I'm pretty sure my parents made up when we were too far off the grid to see any signs, cars, or people. The goal is literally to count the cows that you see before anyone else does... riveting, I know, but we were seriously competitive).

I say ALL of this to say: when my parents give me advice for moving to a new place, I take it to heart.

"One day,  the novelty of the experience wears off... and life finds its routine."

I am blessed that my "routine" includes spending time with these ladies.

When we first arrived in country, our senses were overwhelmed with all of the new sites and sounds (which is totally justified because South Africa is a truly beautiful country). My thoughts were preoccupied with how to improve my bucket bathing techniques, the proper way to greet a person, and reading between the cultural lines to interpret what was happening but not being said.
At first, it was intoxicating. Then, exhausting. Now... well, now it feels just "normal."

I didn't really notice this "normalness" until very recently. We have been travelling and preparing for the next cohort of volunteers, so a lot of people have been asking, "What's it like to live in a village?" And I realized that I get a bit surprised by their asking... so my response is something like, "It's great! My school is supportive. My family is awesome. The place is beautiful. We have a dog..." and I quickly run out of things to say. I have to REMIND myself that they really want to hear about "village living" (water and electricity access, transportation, cultural exchange), so I add those in as, somewhat, after thoughts.

In 2011, when people asked us about what it was like to be in Tacoma, I would never have thought to say, "well, we have indoor plumbing, electricity 100% of the time..." I didn't think about it at all because, at that point it was my normal. (I'm laughing at my future self who will move back to the US and will be fully overwhelmed by these things that used to simply be normal, but I digress... ).

These are signs that the novelty of village living has worn off for me. I feel some shame in admitting it,  but, to be honest, I think it is a good thing in many ways.

First, "intoxication" and "exhaustion" are, for me, not adjectives for a sustainable, healthy way of living. Adjusting to village life is an emotional roller coaster. My heart is happy to have found some solid ground.

The second point is still a bit rough around the edges, because I am unpacking it just now... Now that it feels more routine, it also feels more authentic. I used to feel so uncomfortable with aspects of village life/cultural each that I found myself in my head a lot. I would focus on every word coming out of a person's mouth plus the spaces between each word. It took energy. I didn't feel present. It was hard.

This "new normal" is allowing me more space to share my authentic self. I feel connected. I feel relief. In other ways, I want to sit with what else might be lost when I lose this novelty. Wonderment? Have I lost any gratitude? Or awe? These are things I will be more intentional in considering as I am at my site.

So... "the novelty will wear off and you will find routine? " Yup. Truth. Check... 

"I hope each day you find something of a surprise."

Mopane worms, a type of caterpillar, are a common snack in the springtime.

Yes! Also true!
I am always reflecting on the small moments that have made me chuckle and think, "well, this is South Africa." Days when:

• Your colleagues offer you caterpillar (see photo above), cow intestines, or goat's tongue for lunch. 
• Your students sing your favourite prayer song BECAUSE they know it is your favourite prayer song. 
• Your learners do something to touch your heart and amaze you, such as, bringing their own ideas to manage the library, teaching each other the things you have taught them, or strutting in some new-found confidence that they wear like a comfortable, worn-in shoe. 
• The one million tiny, unexpected,  acts of kindness that warrant a moment for pause and gratitude.

If you blink, you can miss these everyday beauties and small surprises. I want to be more intentional to share these things with those of you at home, because these are the connection points that build the fabric of this experience for me (us).

"Resist the mundane and find magic in each moment."

Joe captured this sunrise on his way to school one morning. Beautiful...

This was my daddy's main charge. This is the piece that I want to carry forward into my second year. 
Resist the mundane. Seek magic.

To me, that means, to pause. Celebrate. Be present. Look around you. Find beauty. Giggle. Ask questions. Go deeper. When I feel like I am in comfortable depths, then I should go deeper again.

All in all, I can say that, even after 29 years of "wisdom" and a full year's Peace Corps experience (dad, get ready to take a screenshot to commemorate the time and date), a father's advice still holds water.

And, just to lay it on thick because I love you and you are so far away...

Dad, you were right.

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Tell us what you think:
- How do you find magic in each moment?
- How do you resist the mundane?
- How do you "go deeper" once you have started to feel comfortable?

Views of a Village

One of the first "sensory experiences" that we experienced when we came to KZN was the visual contrast between village life and our life in the States. As we approach our 1-year anniversary of service in South Africa, we wanted to relive our initial awe with this beautiful country and decode it for our loved ones.

Please enjoy this short video of a rural village that we visited in December.
After the video, I will highlight a few visual indicators of the cultural values or common experiences that you can see in this quick tour.

Visual Indicators of Culture

1) Rondovals
Rondovals are circular buildings that have HUGE significance in the Zulu culture. The families have historically used these structures to hold rituals and ceremonies to honour or convene with ancestors. The roof is made from thatched grass. 

Inside a traditional rondovals, you will often find a space to make a fire and an accumulation of animal bones in the rafters. 

In other homesteads, the rondoval becomes just another storage space. Even in these cases, there is a sense of reverence around these buildings for their meaning.

2) Family Gardens

Most homesteads have at least a small family garden. These gardens are used to supplement family nutrition seasonally. The larger gardens are also used to supplement income. So many times, our mama went to a neighbour's home to buy maize or sugarcane, rather than the store. 

3) Cattle

Historically, cattle have been significant revenue source and social capital for rural families. Many Zulu folktales involve cattle or cattle herders. There are multiple conflicts between tribes and other groups (other tribes, Boers, British) that involved the stealing of or killing of cattle. The idea of someone stealing another family's cow is completely abhorrent—learners will gasp at the mere mention of such a crime. In most communities (though not necessarily at our permanent site), a family's wealth and status is correlated with the number of cows that they own. A common chore (usually for boys and men) is taking out the cows to pasture and herding them all day. 

So, generally, cows are common in the rural homesteads.

4) Fences
Many of the fences you see are designed to keep cattle and goats out of gardens. However, the barbed wire at the top would be a bit excessive for a cow—don’t you think? So, what purpose is that serving?
This is a more difficult question to answer because there are many different explanations given:

• Crime – these rural areas have extremely high unemployment rates, high poverty rates, and large, communal families to take care of. Although the only crime I have heard of is someone stealing the water taps from the yard. The metal can be sold for some quick money, though, most buyers will be suspicious of whence it came.
• Witchcraft/Spirits – There is an undercurrent of skepticism and fear of the magical and mysterious within Zulu culture. Some folks have expressed a fear of ghosts/spirits are their main reasons for avoiding nighttime adventures and often incorporate some “spirit revulsion” elements into their fencelines. 
• Fear of unrest – This theory is mentioned the least often, but is still lingering under the surface. It is often paired with an allusion to apartheid-era raids and massacres. The feelings of distrust and fear are painfully resilient…

5) Waiting
You will see a few clusters of folks waiting for a “taxi” on the side of the road. As you have read before here and here, the taxis do not run on an advertised or consistent schedule. So, roadside waiting is simply a way of life…

UPDATE:
As you tell us about your video observations, we will post additional perspectives/addenda.
Satellite dishes juxtaposed with signs of poverty: Fabulous observation, JV! Since 1994, there has been a huge push to bring electricity to the farthest reaches of the country. It has been a major (and very political) initiative across party lines.  This has caused a jump in communications access in the rural villages, including cell phones (no land lines), radio, and TV. This village, if I remember correctly, received electricity in 2005. Since then, the technology has been slowly spreading from house to house. It is DEFINITELY an adjustment to juxtapose this technology with rural living, but the more difficult adjustment is comparing the amenities available in cities with these sparse, rural luxuries. Thanks again for the observation!


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We are curious...

Looking at the video, what other cultural markers do you see? We have been living in-country for almost a year and are curious about what has slipped our view.

AND

Looking around your home community, what cultural markers can you find that tell about your community’s values or way of life?

Exam Season

Disclaimer: I’m going to use a variety of terms that are used in South Africa. There’s a glossary at the bottom of this post to help with the translations.

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It’s exam season at my school. During the last couple of weeks of the term*, all primary and secondary schools switch into exam-mode. At the primary school level, three grades in particular (Grade 3, 6, and 7) receive a lot of attention because the learners* in these grades write* exams passed down by the Department of Basic Education for languages* and maths* courses. Don’t worry; all of the other grades and subjects test as well. Seeing as how one of my primary functions here is to teach English, I have been able to gain an upfront view of what learners (and educators*) have to do to complete these exams. I’ll illustrate using Grade 6 English.

Grade 6 has “two tasks*”. I use the inverted commas* because saying two tasks makes it sound like the learners only do two things. In reality, learners complete a multitude of assignments that culminate into these two tasks; 10 different assignments to be exact. These are in addition to all of the other assignments learners complete over the course of the term. However, these are the only marks* that count toward the learners’ mark*. The assignments fall under four categories of skills: listening & speaking, reading & viewing, writing & presenting, and language structures & conventions. Under Task One, learners are responsible for completing six assignments, and, under Task Two, four assignments.

Grade 5 Learners Writing Their English Exam

If an educator plans ahead, s/he will assign all of the assignments for Task 1 between weeks 4-5 of the term (kind of like midterms at a university) and all of the assignments for Task 2 between weeks 9-10 of the term (kind of like finals at a university) (one term lasts 10 weeks). Assigning assignments for Task 2 gets tricky because the Department of Basic Education mandates that all public primary schools* administer common tests* for languages and maths for Grades 6-7. Theoretically, learners should be given as much time as possible to learn and then prepare to complete the assignments that will count toward the tasks. However, all of the assignments need to be created, signed off by the HOD*, administered (and in the cases of the common tests invigilated*), marked*, monitored*, and given back to the learners so they can see their mark (not to mention learners are given report cards); all before the end of the term when schools close for a break.

If you’re feeling somewhat lost and stressed by the number of things that need to get done in order to formally assess learners’ academic progress, don’t worry, you’re not alone. Educators at my school, including me, feel the same way. Further compounding educators’ stress, and their workload, is that they teach anywhere from four to seven subjects. This means that they have to administer tasks, which are comprised of a multitude of assignments, for each subject they teach. Now, not every subject has as many assignments under each task; however, altogether, it’s a lot of work.

Grade 7 Learners Writing Their English Exam

During the first term, as the reality of what I needed to do for each of my three classes set in, I was like a deer in headlights. I was perplexed as to how I should approach administering all of the tasks, and, further, I underestimated the amount of time it would take to administer everything. With approximately 135 learners spread across the three grades I teach, it took a lot of time to get everything done. In particular, the tasks for listening & speaking took a bulk of the time in class because I listened to and engaged each learner individually in conversation to assess their abilities. Out of the class, writing & presenting took the largest amount of time because of reading and editing learners’ written work.

Entering the second term, I had a better game plan. I planned to start administering tasks as soon as the fourth week of the term started and to have learners edit their peers’ work in addition to their own. (I tried having them edit their own work in the first term, but editing is a skill that takes a long time to perfect). Also, by the beginning of the second term, I was getting better at reading/deciphering learners’ writing. The trick was to read their writing phonetically. Coming to that realization opened the door to new meaning because I was better able to comprehend the message they were trying to send. It still takes me a lot of time to read through and edit learners’ work, but at least now I have a system for getting it all done. With only a few days left in the term, exam season will be coming to close soon. 

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* term – academic term; quarter

* learners – students

* write – take

* languages – isiZulu; English

* maths – math; mathematics

* educator – teacher

* tasks – exams

* inverted commas – quotation marks

* mark – grade; final grade

* primary school – elementary school; grades pre-kindergarten to 7th grade

* common tests – standardized test

* HOD – Head of Department

* invigilated – proctored

* marked – graded

* monitored – grading is checked by the HOD to ensure it has been done fairly; thus ensuring it wasn’t biased