Nicole & Eddie Visit the HK’s!

“Learn from yesterday, live for today, look for tomorrow, rest this afternoon.”

~ Charlie Brown (written on the menu board at Buccaneers Backpackers in Cintsa, Eastern Cape) 

Our rendition of an "awkward family photo." How did we do?!

Michelle and I were blessed to have Nicole and Eddie Minkoff visit us during the July break from school.  While we were together, we were able to go on a road trip along the Wild Coast.  What a beautiful place!  There was a lot to see and do; especially since we enjoy the outdoors.  And the best part – we got to enjoy it with two of our best friends from back home.

Learn from Yesterday: Addo Elephant Park

African elephants at Addo Elephant Park

We definitely found a strong connection to “yesterday” at Addo Elephant Park. Our guide taught us much about the history and significance of the many animals native to South Africa. We learned why humans are unable to domesticate zebras, the differences between African elephants and Asian elephants, and the complicated history between these beautiful creatures and humans. We learned that all of the reserves and parks refuse to release their population counts for black rhinos because they do not want to attract the attention of poachers. We learned that if you are worried about meeting a lion, hang out with a zebra—they can spot a lion at a great distance. We learned that anything, truly anything, could be disguised as a warthog (and vice versa).

“Look at that elephant… Never mind, it’s a warthog.” 

“Was that an eland or a hartebeest?” “Neither, just a warthog.” 

“Is that a lion?!” “Nope. Warthog.”

Warthog: The chameleon of mammals...

Most importantly, we learned about the interconnected history between South African tribes and the wildlife. You can imagine what this land would be like if the animals hadn’t been rounded up behind fences (or, in many cases, such as the lions in Cape Town, killed off by settlers). You gain a sense of reverence for who/what this territory truly belongs to.

Zebra at Addo Elephant Park

Live for Today: Cave Hunting & Cliff Diving

Our first full rest day was in Coffee Bay. We took advantage of this beautiful locale by taking a day hike to find some locally renowned coastal caves. The owner at the backpackers that gave us instructions said the hike should take about 45 minutes, will “follow the beach”, and would pass a deep lake/inlet along the way.  

Our trusty guide dog

The first 10 minutes of the hike followed the beachfront. This is where we met our trusty guide…dog.  At first, we thought the dog was just following us because it wanted food.  But the farther we walked, the more we realised the dog knew where he was going.  The dog stayed with us through the village, wading across the inlet, around the rocks, up a second hill, through some guy’s yard, down a sketchy goat path, through a coastal tunnel and to the hidden cave! At each turn, the dog was there waiting for us as if to say, “Come on guys – this way!”

Posing for a photo between the caves

 On the journey back, Michelle and I decided to linger a little longer at this deep inlet lake. We had been told that there were some awesome cliff diving spots along the edge. The diving spot was a bit like the three bears—there was a baby step (about 1 metres/3.3 feet), a medium step (about 3 metres/9.8 feet), and a giant step (about 6 metres/19.7 feet). Joe had bravely tested the depth from the baby and medium steps, when a group of small children happened upon the swimming spot. One fearless child, who looked to be about 8 years old, climbed straight up to the top and dove right off. We couldn’t believe his tenacity.  Seeing that he was unharmed, our confidence grew.  Michelle followed suit and went to the highest step.  With the help of a countdown from the kids, she leapt into the air holding her nose.  Using the kids and their countdown, I went next.  It felt like I was falling for an eternity, but just as quickly as I left the step I came splashing down into the water.  It was exhilarating!

Joe's leap

Michelle's leap

Rest this Afternoon: Change of Plans at Hole in the Wall

Sounds easy enough...

We planned a seemingly reasonable 13 km hike from Coffee Bay to Lubanzi Beach. We embarked on the journey bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and were not disappointed. The view was breathtaking! The rough fishing trails meandered up and down the green hills along the gorgeous coastline….and up…and down…and up…and through a village…and down. Perhaps we should have learned from our cave hunting experience that any guidebook that says “…and then just follow the coast” is lying to you.

Stunning view from the fisherman's trail

En route to Hole in the Wall

After about 5 hours on trail, we arrived at the famous Hole in the Wall; a natural phenomenon caused by water erosion over time. We started out on our final leg of the hike and realised that we may have bit off more than we could chew. Michelle’s new boots weren’t cooperating…and who could leave this gorgeous view…

Nature is cool!

After re-grouping, we decided to forgo the extension of our trek, rent a room at the local backpackers, and splurge for milkshakes and dinner. The rest was welcomed and we felt properly spoiled.

Note: In our decision to rest, we had to cancel our reservation at the Mbolompo Xhosa Homestay near Lubanzi Beach. This was a true disappointment and we are sorry that we did not get to meet the lovely host family. If you find yourself in the area, consider staying with a local family and breaking bread together.

The view looking over the town of Hole in the Wall

Look for Tomorrow: Thekwini (Durban) and Beyond…

Our last stop was Thekwini (the isiZulu name for Durban). It was our first chance to show old friends around some of the places we have come to love in South Africa. We took Nicole and Eddie to our favourite restaurants, felt like old pros navigating the complicated city taxi system, and enjoyed a lovely walk along the oceanfront. We reflected on the many highlights of our journey together. We have travelled with Nicole many times before, but this was our first time to embark with Eddie as a part of the crew. We are so very glad that he did.  It was such a joy to get to know him better and an honour to witness their joy and love for each other.

Awwwww! Aren't they so adorable?!

There’s nothing like being able to pick up again with old friends and, moreso, being able to create new memories. We are so grateful that Nicole and Eddie ventured all the way to South Africa to share this with us!

Nicole, Eddie, and Joe in Durban