Nicole & Eddie Visit the HK’s!

“Learn from yesterday, live for today, look for tomorrow, rest this afternoon.”

~ Charlie Brown (written on the menu board at Buccaneers Backpackers in Cintsa, Eastern Cape) 

Our rendition of an "awkward family photo." How did we do?!

Michelle and I were blessed to have Nicole and Eddie Minkoff visit us during the July break from school.  While we were together, we were able to go on a road trip along the Wild Coast.  What a beautiful place!  There was a lot to see and do; especially since we enjoy the outdoors.  And the best part – we got to enjoy it with two of our best friends from back home.

Learn from Yesterday: Addo Elephant Park

African elephants at Addo Elephant Park

We definitely found a strong connection to “yesterday” at Addo Elephant Park. Our guide taught us much about the history and significance of the many animals native to South Africa. We learned why humans are unable to domesticate zebras, the differences between African elephants and Asian elephants, and the complicated history between these beautiful creatures and humans. We learned that all of the reserves and parks refuse to release their population counts for black rhinos because they do not want to attract the attention of poachers. We learned that if you are worried about meeting a lion, hang out with a zebra—they can spot a lion at a great distance. We learned that anything, truly anything, could be disguised as a warthog (and vice versa).

“Look at that elephant… Never mind, it’s a warthog.” 

“Was that an eland or a hartebeest?” “Neither, just a warthog.” 

“Is that a lion?!” “Nope. Warthog.”

Warthog: The chameleon of mammals...

Most importantly, we learned about the interconnected history between South African tribes and the wildlife. You can imagine what this land would be like if the animals hadn’t been rounded up behind fences (or, in many cases, such as the lions in Cape Town, killed off by settlers). You gain a sense of reverence for who/what this territory truly belongs to.

Zebra at Addo Elephant Park

Live for Today: Cave Hunting & Cliff Diving

Our first full rest day was in Coffee Bay. We took advantage of this beautiful locale by taking a day hike to find some locally renowned coastal caves. The owner at the backpackers that gave us instructions said the hike should take about 45 minutes, will “follow the beach”, and would pass a deep lake/inlet along the way.  

Our trusty guide dog

The first 10 minutes of the hike followed the beachfront. This is where we met our trusty guide…dog.  At first, we thought the dog was just following us because it wanted food.  But the farther we walked, the more we realised the dog knew where he was going.  The dog stayed with us through the village, wading across the inlet, around the rocks, up a second hill, through some guy’s yard, down a sketchy goat path, through a coastal tunnel and to the hidden cave! At each turn, the dog was there waiting for us as if to say, “Come on guys – this way!”

Posing for a photo between the caves

 On the journey back, Michelle and I decided to linger a little longer at this deep inlet lake. We had been told that there were some awesome cliff diving spots along the edge. The diving spot was a bit like the three bears—there was a baby step (about 1 metres/3.3 feet), a medium step (about 3 metres/9.8 feet), and a giant step (about 6 metres/19.7 feet). Joe had bravely tested the depth from the baby and medium steps, when a group of small children happened upon the swimming spot. One fearless child, who looked to be about 8 years old, climbed straight up to the top and dove right off. We couldn’t believe his tenacity.  Seeing that he was unharmed, our confidence grew.  Michelle followed suit and went to the highest step.  With the help of a countdown from the kids, she leapt into the air holding her nose.  Using the kids and their countdown, I went next.  It felt like I was falling for an eternity, but just as quickly as I left the step I came splashing down into the water.  It was exhilarating!

Joe's leap

Michelle's leap

Rest this Afternoon: Change of Plans at Hole in the Wall

Sounds easy enough...

We planned a seemingly reasonable 13 km hike from Coffee Bay to Lubanzi Beach. We embarked on the journey bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and were not disappointed. The view was breathtaking! The rough fishing trails meandered up and down the green hills along the gorgeous coastline….and up…and down…and up…and through a village…and down. Perhaps we should have learned from our cave hunting experience that any guidebook that says “…and then just follow the coast” is lying to you.

Stunning view from the fisherman's trail

En route to Hole in the Wall

After about 5 hours on trail, we arrived at the famous Hole in the Wall; a natural phenomenon caused by water erosion over time. We started out on our final leg of the hike and realised that we may have bit off more than we could chew. Michelle’s new boots weren’t cooperating…and who could leave this gorgeous view…

Nature is cool!

After re-grouping, we decided to forgo the extension of our trek, rent a room at the local backpackers, and splurge for milkshakes and dinner. The rest was welcomed and we felt properly spoiled.

Note: In our decision to rest, we had to cancel our reservation at the Mbolompo Xhosa Homestay near Lubanzi Beach. This was a true disappointment and we are sorry that we did not get to meet the lovely host family. If you find yourself in the area, consider staying with a local family and breaking bread together.

The view looking over the town of Hole in the Wall

Look for Tomorrow: Thekwini (Durban) and Beyond…

Our last stop was Thekwini (the isiZulu name for Durban). It was our first chance to show old friends around some of the places we have come to love in South Africa. We took Nicole and Eddie to our favourite restaurants, felt like old pros navigating the complicated city taxi system, and enjoyed a lovely walk along the oceanfront. We reflected on the many highlights of our journey together. We have travelled with Nicole many times before, but this was our first time to embark with Eddie as a part of the crew. We are so very glad that he did.  It was such a joy to get to know him better and an honour to witness their joy and love for each other.

Awwwww! Aren't they so adorable?!

There’s nothing like being able to pick up again with old friends and, moreso, being able to create new memories. We are so grateful that Nicole and Eddie ventured all the way to South Africa to share this with us!

Nicole, Eddie, and Joe in Durban

Reflections about Training for a Marathon

The Two Oceans Marathon is one of the biggest races in South Africa (second to the Comrades Marathon). On our way back from Cape Town in April, Michelle and I met someone who ran the Two Oceans. We were waiting for our taxi to fill at a taxi rank in Durban when a man walked up wearing running shoes, running shorts, and a technical Tee; none of which are normal attire for men in our village. Out of curiosity, I asked the man if he had run the Two Oceans Marathon. He excitedly answered that he had, and thus began our multi-hour conversation about running while we rode the taxi back to our village.

My conversation with the runner, as well as observations I made while I trained to run the Victoria Falls Marathon, got me thinking about what it takes to train for a marathon in rural South Africa compared to in the US.

Context
Running seems to occur in two forms in my village: children playing together or boys/men playing soccer. It’s rare to see woman play soccer. It’s even rarer to see villagers running for the sake of running.

The Soccer Team at Joe's School

The Runner I met on the taxi while going back to my village was an exception. Seeing as how I hadn’t observed other villagers running just to run, I was curious to see why he ran. What ended up being more interesting was what it took for him to be able to run and compete in races.

Race Registration
I have heard many people say that running is a cheap sport, which can be true if one doesn’t participate in any races. However, if one does strive to complete and, even further, compete like the Runner I met, money becomes a factor. For example, in the US, race registration can range from $15 for a local 5k to over $150 for a marathon (not including travel and accommodations if one travels for a race). In South Africa, races vary in price as well. In addition to paying for race registration, runners need to maintain a running license to compete in races and, in some cases, belong to a registered running club.

Joe Taught His Learners (Both Girls and Boys!) How to Play Ultimate Frisbee

Equipment
Further, there’s running equipment: shoes, socks, shorts, pants, short-sleeve technical Tees, long-sleeve technical Tees, beanie, gloves, stopwatch (or satellite watch), etc. While it isn’t necessary to run with most of these items, it becomes harder to compete on a national level with other runners when one doesn’t use them. These items are widely available throughout the US. Virtually all major US cities, and many towns for that matter, have whole stores dedicated to running. Since arriving in South Africa, I have only seen one running store and it was in Pretoria, several hours from my village. There are a few chains that specialize in sports that carry running gear; however, the selection is limited. I also recognize that I’m still getting to know the country, so there may be stores I haven’t yet discovered. The point here is that my village does NOT have a running store, so the Runner has to travel at least a few hours (by taxi) to get to one.

Nutrition
Then there’s nutrition. US stores carry a variety of foods that are used by runners. And not just running stores. Grocery stores and department stores carry running food. In my village, I found sports drinks (most of which contain too much sugar in my opinion) or Energade jellies. With an absence of easy-to-go foods, one has to be cleverer about how to refuel during a run.

Many Families Grow Mealies (i.e. Corn) to Supplement Their Nutrition

Running gels and bars aside, a well-balanced, nutritious diet requires access to protein, healthy fats, fruits, vegetables, and carbohydrates. This was an important issue for the Runner because he highlighted that it’s common to see villagers eating pap (a food most akin to grits) and chicken with gravy. While the chicken is a good source of protein, pap is mostly eaten as a filler because it’s cheap. Given that the unemployment rate in my village hovers at about 50%, a lot of people eat pap.

Donations
While I was talking with the Runner, I learned that he was “sponsored” by people in my shopping town. In addition to using a portion of his income, he also went to local businesses and the hospital to ask for donations. The Runner was humbled by people’s generosity because he said he wouldn’t be able to run without their help. Leading up to a race, he goes door-to-door asking for donations, which he uses to pay for the items I mentioned above – race registration, equipment, and food – as well as travel and accommodations. When he returns from the race, he makes it a point to visit everyone who donated; no matter the amount. The Runner shows them his race bib, photos that were taken during the race, and any medals he earned.

Catching the Last of the Sunlight after an Early Evening Run

The Payoff
The Runner is sort of like a local hero. The people in my shopping town and the surrounding villages take pride in what he has done and how he represents our area. Not only does he represent the area, he represents it well. As the taxi pulled away from the rank, the Runner was pleased to show me the medal he was awarded for finishing within the top 100 of the race where thousands of people compete. Not too shabby for a guy from the village.