Ch-ch-changes!

Hey fam & friends!
We wanted to take a moment to update y'all on a few recent and (potential) upcoming changes for us.

Upcoming Changes:
A few weeks ago, the PC staff decided to tell us the region they will be placing us in! Whoot!

(Pull out your South African maps!)

We learned that we will be placed in the easternmost part of the country, near(ish) to the border of Mozambique and the Indian Ocean. In fact, the ocean will be just a few hours’ walk away! Our home sounds large enough to comfortably host visitors (hint, hint)!

(Note: I am being intentionally vague about our exact location on the blog, but am hoping to give you an idea of what our life might look like. If you are a family or friend who wants more information to plan a trip to visit, check the facebook group or send an email.)

Here are the rumors we have heard so far:

• This region will be very HOT (80F in winter and 110F in summer)
• It will likely be very sandy
• There will be lots of wildlife (monkeys, hippos, snakes...)
• We will take regular malaria medication
• It will be beautiful! and amazing! and happy!

We are excited to enjoy amazing fresh fruit, which our region of SA is known for, and sandy walks through our village. We should have amazing calf muscles after two years! We will be in a low-risk malaria area, so we plan to incorporate mosquito nets into our home décor.  Joe will be on the malaria meds that can make your dreams super vivid, so I look forward to hearing about the creative stories his mind will make up at night. (Don’t worry, mom, I will also be taking malaria meds. Mine will just be less interesting.)

We have been placed at different schools (as is customary for married couples). It is also customary is for the male-person of the couple(**) to be placed in the school that is further from the home. Therefore, my walk to school should be approximately 500m; Joe’s will be around 2-ish km. We aren’t sure what grades we will teach, but we expect our class sizes to be between 30-40.

We are very close to our shopping town. I am not yet sure how that will impact our experience, as we were anticipating being further away. We are also very close to many other volunteers in our cohort, which I hope means that we will have slumber parties and potlucks! J

(**)Currently, South Africa is not hosting same-sex couples. Though, I am excited to share that Peace Corps is taking steps to make the first ever same-sex placements! Certain countries are undergoing additional training to support these volunteers in inclusive, safe, and appropriate ways. Read more here: http://www.peacecorps.gov/media/forpress/press/2238/

Speaking of the Peace Corps Magazine, check out these highlights in the most recent issue. You might recognize two of the universities!

University of Washington Tacoma – This highlights the program developed with my colleague, Tracey, this past year: http://www.peacecorps.gov/media/forpress/press/2323/ 

Pacific Lutheran University – This is the university where Joe worked and supported many students through the Peace Corps application process: http://files.peacecorps.gov/multimedia/pdf/stats/schools2014.pdf

Recent Changes:
There has been a PC South Africa tradition in recent years that trainees cut or shave their hair, partially because it is very difficult to wash long hair in a traditional bucket bath and partially as a liberation act.

I was not one of the ones who shaved my head, but I did chop a LOT off. Joe, welcomed the trim down. It was his first shave while in country! :-D

Photos for your viewing pleasure...

Caroline and Natural

Mikaila rockin' her new 'do!

Kelsey looks so rad!

Guillermo looked like "Rufio" from the movie "Hook." RU-FI-OOOOOOO!

Joe puts his skills to good use.

Bye-bye hair!

Me (rockin' the cut), Amanda (who did the cutting), and Nicole 

Nihamba kahle!

English Club

This week Michelle and I started working in an after-school program called the English Club. The club is a part of our Pre-Service Training (PST). It’s designed to give the Peace Corps Trainees and us a chance to practice the skills we’ve learned in earlier sessions of PST. It has been a blast teaching the learners!

They come from a range of grades, which means they show varying levels of mastery of English. It is hard to tell how much English each learner knows however because the club is only going to last 10 days. We weren’t able to run a formative assessment to get a baseline of their ability, which is something we’d like to do with our learners when we start teaching fulltime. We have been able to get some sense of what the learners know and what they are able to do, though, by conducting small, informal assessments. We do things like warm-ups at the beginning of class to gauge their ability. This informs us how we can direct lessons.

Getting to run the English club has been a gift for many reasons. First, teaching is our primary reason to be in South Africa. Second, we get to interact and have fun with about 20 learners for 2 ½ weeks. Lastly, we get to gain a glimpse into what our classrooms might be like when we start teaching fulltime.

A special highlight for me occurred a couple of days ago when one of my learners hung around after club ended. He wanted to show my co-educator and me a picture he drew. Aside from the fact that the picture was really good, I thought it was so cool that he was willing to be vulnerable with us. I didn’t expect something like that to happen so soon. I’m glad it did and I hope we’re able to reach more learners in a similar, if not the same, way.

In addition to learning isiZulu, Michelle and I have also learned some educational terms in South African English that differ from U.S. English. Here are some fun examples…

• U.S. : South Africa
• Student : Learner
• Teacher : Educator
• Kindergarten : Grade R
• 12th Grade (Senior Year) : Matric
• Grading : Marking
• Review : Revise

Patriarchy and Gender Equality

Every country, including both the US and South Africa,grapples consistently with the big societal questions: Who are we? What do we believe? How do we believe society (read: social hierarchy) should be organized?

The US is experiencing these questions within issues such as: equal pay for woman, paternity benefits for men, marriage equality, social stigmas for stay-at-home and for working parents, changing (or clinging to) gender norms, the list goes on…

Although the specifics may be a bit different (for example, same-sex marriages have been recognized in SA for 8 years), South Africa is experiencing a similar push-and-pull between traditional and changing cultural values and gender norms. 

Traditional Roles:

This week, several Zulu men and women have been teaching us about their cultural expectations regarding dating, marriage, and gender roles. For example, traditionally,…

•  A man would pay “lobola” (similar to a dowry) to the wife’s family. This signifies his commitment to her and her family and thanks them for raising such a marry-able woman. Our host mom was surprised that Joe got to marry me “for free!” Further, when the woman goes to live with the man, the woman’s parents lose a laborer.  The lobola signifies a compensation for the loss of her services.
• A woman must listen to the wishes of the husband, including whether she is allowed to work outside of the home.
• A man is expected to persistently pursue a woman. If she pursues him at all, she is too forward. In fact, she is expected to “play hard to get” even if she is interested.
• The woman is expected to do all of the indoor chores (cooking, cleaning, child-rearing) around the house (sometimes, even if the husband has no outside job). This is especially drastic, since most homes are swept and mopped at least every day.
• A man might be encouraged to take multiple wives in order to grow the family name, though this practice is dwindling.
• Gender nonconformity and homosexuality are not socially accepted. To be “out” as trans* or queer may be a risk to your relationships or even your safety.
• Particularly in rural areas, these roles are generally embraced by both men and women. The most common remark I have heard has been, “Why fix it if it isn’t broken?”

I highlight this last sentiment as a gut-check for those of us (myself included) who experience a knee-jerk reaction to this description. This rural community, in general, is not seeking to revolutionize their gender expectations.

It is notable that the only desire for change that I have heard is from men/women wishing to have more involved in the other’s chores (ex: my host brother loves taking care of the baby in the house, a woman disliking to clean, a young boy wanting to learn to cook). To this end, Joe’s desire to cook and hand wash his own clothes garners much interest from the community. :)

Changing Social Norms:

It has been interesting to juxtapose our traditional experiences with popular culture (TV, music, etc) and the social movements I see on the South African news channels. We witnessed the following elements in one night ALONE:

• A protest seeking to provide resources to survivors of rape and sexual assault. Importantly, interviewees were connecting the prevalence of rape to patriarchal values.
• A video clip of a gay pride event.
• A protest seeking to de-stigmatize public breast-feeding. (it was sort of like a breast-feeding flash mob/sit in from what I could gather)
• Non-hetero and trans* characters on a handful of the most popular TV shows (though, admittedly, still portrayed in negative, comical, or stigmatized roles).

As I mentioned, South Africa does have more legal protections and rights for people who are gay or queer.  My host family is shocked to learn that there are places in the US where someone who is gay could lose their job or be denied services because of their sexual identity.

The social tension between traditional and progressive values is very real in both of our countries. It seems, to me, that it will remain in tension for the entirety of each nation’s future.

Quote from Apartheid Museum

...In the meantime, Joe and I will strive to live as authentically and respectfully as we are able to in this country. Although we will likely feel a bit raw from bumping up against gender expectations on occasion, it is NOT our place to impose our ideals and values onto our SA friends and family. We are guests within this culture.

And in those raw moments, we will lean on our family and friends to help us heal and remind us that we can be as revolutionary as we would like to be—but only once we are back within our own culture. ;) :)

Sanibonani, abangani. (I see the humanity in you, friends, do you see it in me?)

Sifunda Sonke (“We are learning together”)

Joe and I have really been enjoying our language and cultural classes. Our teachers (othisha) have done a fabulous job at making the lessons both challenging and rewarding. This has been such a huge part of our lives in country that we wanted to share a bit of the language with you!

Formal Greeting

Use when: 1) greeting more than one person; 2) the relationship is more formal; or 3) commonly used to signify respect for both the person you are greeting AND their family (See post titled: Ubuntu)

A: Sanibonani  {sahn’beau-nAHnee}

B: Yebo {yEY-bo … yey rhymes hey!}

A: Ninjani? {neenjAHnee}

B: Siyaphila, nina ninjani? {seeyapEEla neena neenjAHnee}

A: Nathi siyaphila {nahtee seeyapEEla}

Informal Greeting

Use when: very close and familiar with a person

A: Sawubona. {sow-oo-bOHNa}

B: Yebo

A: Kunjani? {koonjAHnee}

B: Ngiyaphila wena unjani? {ngee-ya-pEEla wayna oonjahni …”ng” as in “ing” - “g” never makes a “j” sound in isiZulu}

A: Nami ngiyaphila. {nah-mee ngee-ya-pEEla}

Both greetings roughly translate to:

A: “I see the humanity in you. Do you see it in me?”

B: “Yes”

A: “How are you?”

B: “I am alive and how are you?”

A: “I am alive as well.”

Ngiyakuthanda! {gee-ya-khoo-tAHNda} : “I love you!”

Some words to trip you up:

Ibhele : Bear {the “h” adds emphasis to the “b” sound}

Ibele : Human breast

Ngidlala :I play {the “dl” sounds like an electrical hum, similar to a breathy “z”}

Ngizala : I give birth

For the How I Met Your Mother fans in the house:

uBarney ugqoke uthayi namadada wahke unyaka wonke : “Barney wore his tie with ducks all year.”

(from: http://sites.psu.edu/schneiderrclblog/wp-content/uploads/sites/701/2012/11/ducky-tie.jpg)

And MY personal favorite:

(EDITED) Yonke ilanga, zonke isinzuku! : “All day, every day!” …it doesn’t quite roll off the tongue as easily, but it is silly and makes a great hashtag #YAZI!

;)

Apartheid

“The only difference between the United States and South Africa is that South Africa is honest about what it is.” – Miriam Makeba

Today (written 7/10/14), we went to the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg. At this point in our journey, our hosts and teachers have talked openly about the ugliness of apartheid. I have been humbled by how freely stories have been shared with us.

Visiting the museum was an incredibly moving experience, especially since there is an entire portion of the exhibit dedicated to the life and work of Nelson Mandela. The air was thick and heavy in the exhibit. There is so much life, and hate, and death, and pain, and shame, and violence… and hope, and power represented. 

Apartheid Museum Entrance

There were many experiences and quotations that gave me pause throughout the exhibit. There are three in particular that I would like to share as I reflect. 

1. The wall of laws. There was an entire two-story wall COVERED with the laws that were passed to create and support apartheid. That means that lawmakers passed law, after law, after law, after law, to segregate, disenfranchise, rob, and oppress black Africans. Apartheid (slavery, Jim Crow, the Holocaust)… These don’t just “happen.” They are systematically built through deliberate actions, veiled as humanitarian or charitable in nature, allowed to persist into enforcement through prejudice, racism, and propaganda. 
2. The presidential justification for these laws. There was a video of the then-prime minister justifying these laws as the means to create the best South Africa for white citizens and the best outcomes for “barbaric, semi-barbaric, semi-educated, and educated black South Africans.” He was using his sense of superiority as a white person to justify oppression as “being in the best interest” of the oppressed. Close your eyes, switch the continent…This is awfully familiar…
3. The room filled with hanging nooses. I can’t type that and not get chills/shudder. Each noose represented a death sentence for opposing the apartheid regime. There are no words that would appropriately honor the sacrifice, pain, and loss… I could only sit in silence and be present.

I found myself thinking back to the Miriam Makeba quote about South Africa’s honesty about what it is. It made me reflect on the history of racism, slavery, Jim Crow, oppression within the US. Particularly, how they are (or are not) discussed, validated, and addressed. Mr. Baker has confirmed that the truth about apartheid is taught in SA schools, is told to children, and is on the forefront of the minds of their leadership. I doubt that the honesty, self-reflection, responsibility, and openness we have witnessed is universal with all South Africans (a world could never be so perfect). However, it did give me hope that one day all countries would face their ugliest of sins with as much openness and candor. The desire of a nation to talk about it, to heal, to change course, to find a new way is a difficult journey, but is something to be PROUD of!

"Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter." - Martin Luther King, Jr.

Day in the Life of a PCT (Peace Corps Trainee)

It’s been about a month since Michelle and I arrived in South Africa and so much has happened. The days are starting to blur together. Michelle and I thought we would attempt to give our followers a flavor of what our day is like:

• 4:00am-7:00am - The first rooster crows; followed by a goose; then other roosters
• 6:30am - Watch the sunrise
• 6:35am - Use the latrine (outhouse)
• 8:00am - Language lesson (2-4 hours daily)
• Depending on the day - Riding the komvi (taxi van)
• Depending on the day - Sessions (cultural, technical, safety & security, medical) (2-4 hours daily)
• Throughout the day - Seeing the izingane izinkomo nezimvu [translation: baby cows and sheep]
• 5:30pm - Watch the sunset
• Depending on the day - Do chores (wash dishes, hand wash clothes, sweep our room, cook)
• 5:45pm - Bucket bathing
• 6:15pm – Study isiZulu (language)
• A couple of hours everyday - Spend time with family
• 8:00pm - Watch Generations (a popular soap opera; just about everyone in our village watches it)
• Before bed - Gaze at the Milky Way (so many stars!)
• 9:30pm-10:00pm - Lala kahle [translation: goodnight]

Umndeni wethu lapha eSouth Africa [translation: Our family in South Africa]

This is a typical day. It varies depending on random events. For example, recently, our cohort learned about the Zulu king’s wedding to a Swazi princess, so we asked to attend the ceremony. According to Zulu culture, anyone can attend the king’s wedding (it’s kind of a big deal). Our Training Director, Mr. Baker, made arrangements for transportation, and, voila!, we went to the wedding. (Disclaimer: traditional Zulu weddings last for a few days, and we only saw part of one of the days).

VIP Passes to a Zulu Royal Wedding

Royalty Performing a Traditional Wedding Dance

Michelle and I are enjoying ourselves. Our fellow PCTs are a great support. The Peace Corps staff is very knowledgeable and work diligently to make sure we can be successful. We have a wonderful host family.

At the same time, we’ve been experiencing the up’s and down’s of the U-W curve of living in a new culture (push up your nerd glasses). For example, we’ve had moments when we’ve really missed family, friends, the convenience of a flush toilet, or ice cream. There’s ice cream in South Africa, but not in our village. In the same day that we might be missing someone or something, we might also experience a break through in learning the language (for example, understanding how noun classes work) or see the wedding photos of our host mama (which was so cool!)

Overall, our decision to join the Peace Corps is affirmed regularly because of the connections we’re making with the people.

Ubuntu

Joe and I are over the moon to be here! The travel was a bit tiring (that is, perhaps, an understatement… or just feeling so punch-drunk over being here that anything seems like a beautiful challenge). We are excited to meet so many interesting people from diverse backgrounds, who share similar passions for education, travel, and cultural understanding.

One of the cultural values that we have really connected with is “Ubuntu.”

Ubuntu is the idea that we are all interconnected. My happiness and success is dependent upon your happiness and success. I cannot be well unless you are also well. I am because you are.

This cultural nuance warmed my heart. What a beautiful perspective on family and community… What is equally as beautiful is how “Ubuntu” is manifested within the culture.

For example, “sawubona” is the word used to greet a singular person in isiZulu. “Sanibonani” is the correct way to greet a group of people.   However, it is common in everyday speech to use “sanibonani” when speaking only to one person. When asked why that is, the response was this:

“We commonly use ‘sanibonani’ when speaking to an individual, because we are a culture that values not only who you are, but where you come from. Therefore when I am greeting you, I am not only greeting you but also the people in your family and those who went before you.”

Joe and I shared this sentiment later and drew our own lines between this practice/phrase and the cultural significance of ancestors and collectivist values. I am curious whether a person from South Africa would draw those same lines. I am also curious about other examples of how cultural philosophy might impact other day-to-day practices and language.

One Week Anniversary

Michelle and I have been in South Africa for about a week (technically tomorrow, but we’ve been in Peace Corps’ hands since July 1st). There are so many things to talk about, so it’s hard to know where to start. Also, having limited access to the Internet presents its own challenge. For example, I wrote this post in Word in preparation to upload it when I could get online. 

Peace Corps Staff Waiting for Us at the Airport in Johannesburg

Truthfully, though, I’m enjoying being disconnected from the Internet. My pants pockets have been the lightest they’ve been since before I started carrying a wallet. This is a small way to illustrate that I no longer have a cell phone that can connect to the Internet, send/receive texts, or make phone calls. It’s liberating! I may feel differently in a month, but right now I’m enjoying not having the distraction of a phone because it’s enabling me to really connect with the other Peace Corps Trainees (PCTs) instead of feeling the need to check my email.

Fellow PCTs Socializing

Michelle and I are working on other posts that we’ll upload when we have another opportunity. We’re excited to share the language we’re learning – isiZulu, talk about Ubuntu and its influence on just about everything, gender dynamics, and more. For now, I’ll just say that we’re doing well and we’re quite busy. We’re in training sessions from 8:00am-5:00pm. The Peace Corps staff is presenting a lot of information, from language and culture to medical preparedness and development work. When we go to bed, we’re pretty exhausted.

One quick language lesson before I go. I’ve learned some slang in isiZulu. The first is “sharp, sharp” (pronounced “shop, shop”; like a store). People say it while holding a thumbs up. It means “great” or “cool”. Another word that’s commonly used to say cool is “sure”.

We hope everyone is going well back home!

***SPECIAL SHOUT OUT TO NICOLE & EDDIE!!!!!! HAPPY WEDDING DAY!!! We are sad to not be there in person, but you are definitely on our hearts!! (Our homework practice sentences are becoming different versions of “Nicole and Eddie will get married” and “I visited America because Nicole married Eddie.”) xoxo!

Salani kahle (stay well all)!